bihartravel

Ugratara, Mahishi

A Tantric goddess and a philosopher's village on the Kosi

The Shakti Peeth of Ugratara at Mahishi, where the 8th-century philosopher Mandan Mishra and his wife Ubhay Bharati debated Adi Shankaracharya. Kosi country, deep Mithila, far off any tourist route.

Ugratara, Mahishi
© Varunesh Chandra · CC BY-SA 4.0
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Highlights

  • Ugratara Sthan — Sanctum with the three Tara images; dawn aarti..
  • Mandan Bharti Dham — Memorial of the philosopher couple..
  • Surya Mandir, Kandaha — Karnat-era Sun temple in black basalt, 10 km..
  • Kosi barrage, Bhimnagar — The 1960s barrage on the Nepal border, 60 km..

Mahishi is one of the great Tantric sites of eastern India: the goddess here is Tara in her fierce Ugra form, flanked by Ekjata and Nil Saraswati, and the shrine's present image is credited to the Karnat kings of Mithila in the 12th century. Pilgrims come for Navratri and for the Tantric tradition that connects it with Tarapith in Bengal; Kandaha's black-stone Sun temple, 10 km away, is from the same Karnat court.

The village's other claim is intellectual. Mandan Mishra, the Mimamsa philosopher, lived here, and the story goes that Shankaracharya walked to Mahishi to debate him — asking the women at the well for the house where even the parrots argued about Vedanta. Mandan's wife Ubhay Bharati judged the contest, and when he lost, debated Shankara herself. The Mandan Bharti Dham in the village remembers it.

Saharsa is the Kosi's heartland — floods, fish, makhana ponds and the Koshi barrage at Bhimnagar on the Nepal border. It is a place for travellers who want Mithila without any of the trappings.

Chapter 01

What to see

  1. 01

    Ugratara Sthan

    Sanctum with the three Tara images; dawn aarti.

  2. 02

    Mandan Bharti Dham

    Memorial of the philosopher couple.

  3. 03

    Surya Mandir, Kandaha

    Karnat-era Sun temple in black basalt, 10 km.

  4. 04

    Kosi barrage, Bhimnagar

    The 1960s barrage on the Nepal border, 60 km.

Practical

Getting there

Fly

Darbhanga (DBR) 110 km; Patna (PAT) 230 km.

Train

Saharsa Junction, 17 km; direct trains from Patna, Delhi and Kolkata.

Road

17 km west of Saharsa on the Darbhanga road; 100 km from Darbhanga via Supaul.

On the map · Ugratara, Mahishi is at 25.8441°N, 86.4694°E in Saharsa district, about 177 km (4 h) by road from Patna.

Before you go · Best time to visit · Safety, dress code & money · What to eat nearby

Practical

Distances from Ugratara, Mahishi

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