bihartravel

Dhua Kund & Manjhar Kund

Two monsoon waterfalls on the edge of the Kaimur plateau

Half an hour from Sasaram the plain ends at a 400-metre wall of rock, and in the monsoon two rivers pour off it — Manjhar Kund into a wide bathing pool, Dhua Kund into a gorge so deep the spray rises like smoke. Thomas Daniell painted it in 1790; almost nobody has been since.

Dhua Kund & Manjhar Kund
© Tichkulemishima · CC0
At a glance
Season
July – October for full flow; trickles by December
Entry
Free; parking ₹20–50
Dhua Kund drop
~60 m into a gorge
Manjhar Kund
Broad shelf fall into a shallow pool; September mela
Also nearby
Tutla Bhawani (40 km), Karkat Garh (70 km), Kaimur WLS
Painted
Thomas & William Daniell, 'Dhuah Koonde', 1790
Best time
July – October for the falls at full force; November–February for cool walks (the falls shrink to streams)
Give it
Half a day for the two kunds; a full day to add Tutla Bhawani or Karkat Garh

Fees and timings change — verify before you travel.

Trip

Highlights

  • Dhua Kund — Viewpoint on the rim; the gorge is deep and unfenced in places.
  • Manjhar Kund — Broad shallow pool, safe to wade at the edges; busy on weekends and during the September mela..
  • Tutla Bhawani — 40 km south-west — a shrine in a canyon beside a fall; a new footbridge and steps..
  • Karkat Garh — On the Karmanasa, 70 km; crocodile sanctuary at the base, an eco-tourism site with huts..

The Kaimur range is the eastern end of the Vindhyas, a sandstone plateau that runs from Madhya Pradesh into Bihar and stops, abruptly, above Sasaram. Streams that gather on top have nowhere to go but over the edge, and in the rains the whole escarpment runs with water. Two falls are close enough to the road to make a day of.

Manjhar Kund is the gentle one: the Kao river slides over a broad shelf of rock into a shallow, wide pool where families bathe, picnic and play cricket on the ledges. In September a fair fills the forest around it. A few kilometres further the same river reaches Dhua Kund — 'the smoke pool' — and plunges into a gorge; the drop is so high that the water breaks into mist before it lands, and from the top you look down into a cloud. The English painters Thomas and William Daniell came here in 1790 and their aquatint of 'Dhuah Koonde' is in the British Library.

There are more, if you have a car and a local driver: Tutla Bhawani, where a goddess shrine sits beside a fall in a narrow canyon, and Karkat Garh on the Karmanasa river, with a crocodile sanctuary at its foot. Together with Rohtasgarh fort and Sher Shah's tomb, the Kaimur edge is Bihar's best short wild weekend — and almost unknown.

Chapter 01

How it came to be

The Kaimur scarp has sent water over its edge since the Vindhyas rose, and the Kao river's two falls have been bathing and picnic places for Sasaram as long as there has been a Sasaram. Their one moment of fame came in 1790 when the English painters Thomas and William Daniell, travelling up the Grand Trunk Road, climbed to Dhua Kund and made the aquatint that is now in the British Library — a gorge of smoke-like spray that has not changed.

Recent years have brought a road, steps and railings at Manjhar Kund, and the Rohtas district's push to open the Kaimur edge — Tutla Bhawani's footbridge, the Karkat Garh eco-huts — as a destination.

Chapter 02

What it's like now

In the monsoon the drive from Sasaram ends at a shelf of rock where the Kao spreads into a dozen channels and slides into Manjhar Kund's pool — wide, brown-green, shallow at the edges, with families wading and children leaping. A few kilometres on, Dhua Kund is a different animal: the same river narrows and leaps into a deep slot in the plateau, and you stand on the rim looking down into a cloud. There is no fence worth the name; the view is the reward and the care is yours.

Add Tutla Bhawani if you have the day — a goddess shrine beside a fall at the end of a narrow canyon, a new bridge over the stream — and you have seen the three best waterfalls in Bihar in one go.

Chapter 03

What to see

  1. 01

    Dhua Kund

    Viewpoint on the rim; the gorge is deep and unfenced in places. Best August–October.

  2. 02

    Manjhar Kund

    Broad shallow pool, safe to wade at the edges; busy on weekends and during the September mela.

  3. 03

    Tutla Bhawani

    40 km south-west — a shrine in a canyon beside a fall; a new footbridge and steps.

  4. 04

    Karkat Garh

    On the Karmanasa, 70 km; crocodile sanctuary at the base, an eco-tourism site with huts.

  5. 05

    Kaimur Wildlife Sanctuary

    The plateau top — leopard, sloth bear, chinkara, and the Rohtasgarh ramparts along its edge.

Chapter 04

A perfect day

  1. 6:00

    Sher Shah's tomb in Sasaram at opening.

  2. 8:00

    Drive south; Manjhar Kund by 9, before the crowds — wade, swim at the edges.

  3. 10:30

    Dhua Kund rim viewpoint; walk the plateau edge.

  4. 12:30

    Picnic lunch, or dhabas back on the Dehri road.

  5. 14:00

    Tutla Bhawani (40 km) for the canyon shrine, or Rohtasgarh's approach for tomorrow.

Chapter 05

Things to do

Bathing at Manjhar Kund

Shallow edges are fine; avoid the base of the fall in August.

Rim walk at Dhua Kund

Unfenced; wear grippy shoes, keep children close.

Kaimur plateau drive

Rohtasgarh, Tutla Bhawani, Karkat Garh — a loop for a second day.

Chapter 06

Stay, eat, celebrate

Where to stay

Sasaram or Dehri-on-Sone; Forest Department huts at Karkat Garh by advance booking.

Where to eat

Seasonal stalls at Manjhar Kund; otherwise carry food. GT Road dhabas in Sasaram for dinner.

Festivals & seasons

Manjhar Kund mela in September (after Anant Chaturdashi) — a day of bathing and fairground.

Manjhar kund ,Sasaram, Bihar 01
© Yusuf Ejaz · CC BY-SA 4.0
Manjhar kund ,Sasaram, Bihar 01

Practical

Getting there

Fly

Varanasi (VNS) 120 km; Gaya (GAY) 130 km; Patna (PAT) 160 km.

Train

Sasaram Junction 20 km, on the Delhi–Howrah Grand Chord — direct trains from Delhi, Kolkata, Patna, Varanasi.

Road

From Sasaram take the Dehri road and turn south at Sheosagar; 20–25 km, about 45 minutes. Hire a car in Sasaram — there is no public transport.

On the map · Dhua Kund & Manjhar Kund is at 24.8305°N, 84.0138°E in Rohtas district, about 185 km (4½ h) by road from Patna.

Before you go · Best time to visit · Safety, dress code & money · What to eat nearby

Practical

Distances from Dhua Kund & Manjhar Kund

Combine with

All of Shahabad