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Bakhtiyar Khan's Tomb, Chainpur

A perfect Sur-dynasty tomb in a village square

A grey stone domed tomb from Sher Shah's era in the village of Chainpur, with a ruined fort and a Harsu Brahm shrine beside it. The Kaimur plateau's least-known monument, 40 km from Sasaram.

Bakhtiyar Khan's Tomb, Chainpur
© Partha Dalal · CC BY-SA 4.0
Trip

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Highlights

  • The tomb — Walk the plinth; the dome interior has fine squinches..
  • Chainpur fort & Harsu Brahm — Gateway, mosque, and the shrine's extraordinary rites..
  • Mundeshwari temple — 10 km — one of India's oldest functioning temples..

Bakhtiyar Khan was a noble of the Sur court, married to Sher Shah's daughter, and his tomb at Chainpur is a smaller cousin of the emperor's at Sasaram: an octagonal chamber under a wide dome, raised on a plinth with chhatris at the corners, built of the same grey Chunar sandstone. It has none of Sasaram's lake and crowds — it sits in a village square with children, cattle and a chai stall.

Next to it, Chainpur fort is a Mughal-period enclosure with a gateway and the Harsu Brahm temple, where a 15th-century Brahmin priest wronged by the local raja is worshipped as a protective spirit; it draws crowds from across Bihar and UP for exorcism rites that are unsettling and unforgettable.

Mundeshwari, the 7th-century octagonal temple, is 10 km away, so the two make a natural morning before Sasaram.

Chapter 01

What to see

  1. 01

    The tomb

    Walk the plinth; the dome interior has fine squinches.

  2. 02

    Chainpur fort & Harsu Brahm

    Gateway, mosque, and the shrine's extraordinary rites.

  3. 03

    Mundeshwari temple

    10 km — one of India's oldest functioning temples.

Practical

Getting there

Fly

Varanasi (VNS) 90 km.

Train

Bhabua Road (Mohania) 12 km, on the Delhi–Howrah main line.

Road

12 km south of Mohania on the Bhabua road; 40 km from Sasaram.

On the map · Bakhtiyar Khan's Tomb, Chainpur is at 25.0346°N, 83.5111°E in Kaimur district, about 228 km (5½ h) by road from Patna.

Before you go · Best time to visit · Safety, dress code & money · What to eat nearby

Practical

Distances from Bakhtiyar Khan's Tomb, Chainpur

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All of Shahabad