bihartravel

Lauriya Nandangarh

Ashoka's pillar, still standing, still polished

An Ashokan pillar with its lion intact, a 25-metre stupa mound and a field of Vedic burial barrows in deep Champaran farmland. One of the least-visited great sites in India.

Lauriya Nandangarh
© Praanshu · CC BY-SA 4.0
Trip

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Highlights

  • Ashoka Pillar — Lion capital in place; read the Brahmi edicts up close..
  • Nandangarh stupa — Climb the mound at dusk for the view over the fields..
  • Burial mounds — Pre-Buddhist earthen barrows north of the village..
  • Lauriya Areraj pillar — A second Ashokan pillar, 50 km south-east, also intact..

The pillar at Lauriya is the finest surviving: 12 metres of single sandstone shaft, mirror-polished in the Mauryan way, topped by a seated lion, and carrying six of Ashoka's edicts in Brahmi — including his plea that his officers protect animals and plant shade trees on the roads. It was raised around 243 BCE on the route from Pataliputra to Lumbini, which Ashoka walked in the twentieth year of his reign.

A kilometre away is Nandangarh, a brick stupa mound 25 metres high and 450 metres around, excavated to reveal a polygonal terraced structure — among the largest stupas ever built, possibly holding the ashes of the Buddha's own share or of a Mauryan emperor. Fifteen smaller earthen mounds nearby are Vedic-period burials from before the Buddha.

Nobody comes. The pillar stands in a railed garden where children play cricket, and the stupa is a hill with goats on it. That is exactly the attraction.

Chapter 01

What to see

  1. 01

    Ashoka Pillar

    Lion capital in place; read the Brahmi edicts up close.

  2. 02

    Nandangarh stupa

    Climb the mound at dusk for the view over the fields.

  3. 03

    Burial mounds

    Pre-Buddhist earthen barrows north of the village.

  4. 04

    Lauriya Areraj pillar

    A second Ashokan pillar, 50 km south-east, also intact.

Practical

Getting there

Fly

Patna (PAT) 230 km; Gorakhpur (GOP) 140 km.

Train

Narkatiaganj Junction 15 km; Bettiah 28 km.

Road

28 km north-west of Bettiah on the Narkatiaganj road.

On the map · Lauriya Nandangarh is at 26.9895°N, 84.4084°E in West Champaran district, about 221 km (5½ h) by road from Patna.

Before you go · Best time to visit · Safety, dress code & money · What to eat nearby

Practical

Distances from Lauriya Nandangarh

Combine with

All of Champaran